Several
people have inquired about my strategies for fertilizing
bromeliads. I realize that many different opinions exist,
and I’m glad that Pen also is including an article by New
York grower Herb Plever in this newsletter. First
of all, in a plant family as large as the Bromeliaceae, it’s
impossible to expect that all plants can be treated exactly
the same, as they come from such incredibly diverse habitats. Furthermore,
as growers, we provide different conditions for our plants-
some are growing at windows, others use fluorescent lights,
and others may have a greenhouse. In any case, the plants
will make the best use of any fertilizer if they are also
getting adequate light. Now, having said that, I’ll say
that I clearly agree with Herb Plever that there are definite
advantages to using fertilizer on many plants. Bromeliads
that are grown primarily for their showy flower spikes will
show the best results when they are generously fertilized.
I have used a couple of
fertilizer formulations developed by some commercial
Tillandsia growers. A product called ‘Epiphytes
Delight’, sold by Rainforest Flora, has a N-P-K ratio of
18-9-27. A product sold by Tillandsia International under
the ‘Grow More’ label as a Bromeliad- Tillandsia fertlizer
has a formula of 17-8-22. Both of these products have
given me very good results when used on practically all Tillandsias,
Vrieseas, and Guzmanias, along with some Aechmeas
and Nidulariums. I have also taken Herb’s
suggestion of adding some Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) from
time to time. I begin fertilizing in February as light
and heat increase in the green house. As I move the
plants outside for the summer, they get fed more frequently. I
taper the feedings as the plants come back inside in the fall. I
stop feeding around the end of October as the daylength and
temperature diminish. I
know many growers in Florida who use Osmocote 14-14-14 slow
release fetilizer. They often mix it in the potting mix
when planting pups and then top dressonce or twice a year
after that. I’ve been tempted to try it on a few
plants from time to time, but haven’t gotten around to it,
yet.
There
are many bromeliads that I feed what I’ll call a “low-
nitrogen diet”. These include most Neoregelias,
Billbergias, Dyckias, and some Aechmeas. Most
of these plants have either dramatically colored leaves, bold
markings, or strong and spiny character. Sparing use of
nitrogen can make a bigger and bolder specimen, as well as
more flowers and more frequent blooms. I’ve recently
taken note of this particularly with some of my Billbergias. However,
I find that overuse of nitrogen can mute some of the more
desirable characteristics. As I’ve told some of you
before, if you use enough nitrogen, green will be your
favorite color. The fertilizers that I’ve been happy
with are ‘Schultz’s Cactus’ liquid plant food with a
formula of 2-7-7, and ‘Alaska Mor-Bloom’ fish emulsion
based 0-10-10. The ‘Cactus’ fertilizer I use when I
water both the plant reservoir and the potting mix. The
‘Mor- Bloom’ I typically use just to water in the pot.
Now take a look at a plant such
as Aechmea fasciata- the silver vase plant. Most
of us have this plant in our collections. We see it
frequently in stores shipped up from Florida. They are
typically well fertilized, large, spreading specimens with
ample inflorescences. …Nothing wrong with that. However,
I prefer the look of a specimen which has been on a rather
lean diet. The plant assumes a more upright, almost
tubular shape that I find quite striking. Be aware, I
think you can go too far. There are many plants that will
grow with no supplemental fertilizing at all. Some can
look quite attractive when grown that way. However, they
tend to be smaller plants with fewer and smaller leaves,
slower to flower- and with fewer flowers.
One
surprise that I’ve found in my collection regards my Orthophytums. For
years I assumed they wanted the same conditions as the Neoregelias.
I’ve discovered that they respond to moderate fertilizing by
growing much more vigorously. They keep their color and
character as long as they have adequate light. As a side
note (not related to fertilizing), I’m also finding that
they make a much nicer specimen when they are grown in a
larger pot as well.
The moral to the story:
a) It pays to keep experimenting.
b) Sometimes you just have to make the “right mistakes”!
I look forward to feedback from other growers regarding their
experiences with fertilizing!
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